In fitting style, after waiting for a boat that sailed six hours late, I have left Africa. During the eight and a half months I was there, almost getting from one end to the other overland, I have been constantly surprised, astonished and amazed by the people and their way of life, and the landscape and the animals that populate it. What stands out are the people - my motto for Africa is great people, terrible government - the list of friendly people that I have met goes on for pages. The thing about Africa is that despite there being almost no reason for it you get infected with a sense of the joy of life and feel hopeful about the future. Perhaps when you have had your hopes dashed so many times you have to revel in the small things and when things are so bad life is a grind you have to have hope that it will improve. So I am a little sad to leave but I can console myself with some great stories and photos as well.
A little list of the highs and lows:
GENERAL
Best country: Rwanda, Rwanda, Rwanda
Best local insight: Rwanda, Godwin the journalist
Biggest achievement: Tanzania, surviving Kilimanjaro in the Volleys
Most awesome experience: Rwanda, spending an hour with mountain gorillas
Coolest cat: Felix, Zambia, the guide who took us to Angel's Chair above Victoria Falls
Worst touts: Tanzania, Zanzibar, you blokes can keep your bloody island
Strangest question: Kenya, Do you want warm or cold beer ?
Best alcohol innovation: Zambia, spirit sachets (AKA Headache in a bag), cheap and nasty, the way alcohol should be
Most colonial moment: Mozambique, Tofinho, sitting on the balcony drinking a GT whilst the boy cleaned the house
Best market: Zambia, Livingstone, it's not what you buy but who you buy it from
Best backpackers: Zambia, Livingstone, Jollyboys, nice space, nice view, nice pool, nice people
Best view: Kilimanjaro, Tanzania, looking down from above the clouds on the roof of Africa
Most impressive monument: Egypt, the Pyramids, they are big and they just sit there but sometimes that is enough
Worst room: nameless hotel , Ruhengeri, Rwanda - dank room with no window, a bed that fell apart, music all night and you had to ask for the key to go to the toilet - which was a smelly hole in the ground - and it was expensive !!1
TRAVEL
Most crowded vehicle: Mozambique, 31 people (and various animals) in a Toyota Hiace
Longest waiting period for shortest ride: Uganda, Masindi to the chimps, 6 hours waiting for 2 hour ride
Worst road: Kenya, north of Archers Rest to the border with Ethiopia, more corrugations than bandits
Worst driving experience: Malawi, on the sinuous Lilongwe-Nkhata Bay road at 110km/h
Most dangerous trip: Kenya, Marsabit to Moyale on the top of truck, through bandit country
Best free ride: Tanzania, Overland truck from Malawi to Arusha
Biggest wait: Kenya, Maralal, Four days to get a truck to Lake Turkana, never arrived
Strangest driving system: Egypt, make up the rules as they go along
Skankiest toilet: Megab, Ethiopia, it still makes me queasy thinking about it
WILDLIFE SECTION:
Best Free Experience: Zambia, Watching an elephant swim across the river
Best Too Close to the Wildlife Experience: Zambia, Leopard almost jumping in the back of open jeep
Best animal on destruction: Tanzania, Ngorogoro Crater, the elephant that tore apart the water tank
Most unforgettable moment: Tanzania, Watching cheetahs and a gazelle starting the dance of death
Best is this really happening moment: Tanzania, the Serengeti, despite all the hype and the people, three lions decided to lie down in front of our car
Most underrated animal: Uganda, the hippo, they are bit, fat and waddle, like a big wombat in water
CULINARY SECTION
Best bit of meat: Mozambique, Parrot Fish - who would have thought the beak would be so tasty
Best Coffee: Ethiopia, Yabelo - my first coffee ceremony
Best Indian Meal: Uganda, Masala Chat House, Kampala - northern and southern thalis
Best soup: Zanzibar, Spicy Broth
Best fast food invention: Tie between Uganda, The Rolex and South Africa, Bunny Chow
Most enjoyable staple: Egypt, koshari, cheap, filling and delicious
Most boring staple: Tie between Zambia, Malawi, Uganda, Kenya, Nsima or Ugali
Best Vegetarian: Ethiopia, no meat for a whole month just fantastic vego food, almost got religion back in my good book
A travel blog for the thinking clown who has drunk a little too much of the local tap water
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